Documenting a Cemetery for Your Family Tree: My Photo + Spreadsheet System
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I found my great-great-grandmother's headstone completely overgrown, it was a sorry sight — ivy wrapped around the base like a python, moss so thick you couldn't read her name, and a layer of grime that made the granite look like charcoal. I'd been digging through family records for years, but nothing prepared me for that moment. I knelt down, pulled out my phone, and snapped a photo. Then another. And another. That was the start of my obsession.
Here's the thing: cemetary documentation for your family tree isn't just about snapping a few pics and walking away. It's a system. A messy, imperfect, deeply satisfying system. And I've refined mine over dozens of visits to old graveyards, from tiny churchyards in rural Ohio to sprawling historic cemeteries in New England. This post walks you through exactly how I do it — the photo workflow, the spreadsheet setup, and the little tricks I've learned the hard way. Spoiler: it's not glamorous, but it works.
Why You Need a System (Not Just a Camera Roll)
I used to just take photos and hope for the best. Big mistake. I'd end up with 200 blurry shots of the same stone, no idea which grave was which, and zero context. Then I'd try to match them to family tree notes months later and want to cry. So I built a system. It's not fancy. I use a free Google Sheets spreadsheet and my phone camera. That's it. The key is consistency: every grave gets the same treatment. I record the cemetery name, section, plot number (if visible), GPS coordinates (I drop a pin on Google Maps), date, and a unique photo ID number that matches the file names on my phone. Took me three tries to get this right. Worth it.
My Photo Workflow: Clean, Capture, Label
First, I clean the stone gently. I carry a soft-bristle brush (a natural horsehair brush, nothing metal) and a spray bottle with water. If the stone is really grimy, I use D/2 Biological Solution — it's a pH-neutral, non-ionic cleaner that kills biological growth without damaging marble, limestone, or sandstone. I spray it on, wait five minutes, then scrub gently with water. Never use harsh household chemicals or abrasive tools. I learned that lesson when I saw a neighbor's stone etched from bleach. Heartbreaking. After cleaning, I take three photos per stone: a wide shot showing the grave in context (with any nearby landmarks), a close-up of the inscription (at an angle to catch the light), and a detail shot of any carvings or symbols. I rename each photo on my phone right there — "Smith_John_1872_01.jpg" — so I never lose track. Then I log the file name in my spreadsheet.
The Spreadsheet Columns That Save My Sanity
My spreadsheet has 12 columns. Here's the exact list: Cemetery Name, Section, Plot Number, GPS Coordinates, Date Visited, Surname, First Name, Birth Year, Death Year, Inscription Text (transcribed), Photo File Name, and Notes. I fill it out in the cemetery parking lot before I drive home. No exceptions. The Notes column is my favorite — I jot down things like "stone leaning, needs resetting" or "next to a big oak tree" or "wife's maiden name is on the back." I also include a column for 'Condition' (good, fair, poor) and 'Material' (granite, marble, etc.) if I can tell. It's not rocket science, but it means I can search my family tree later and find every single photo and record in seconds. I've got about 400 graves documented so far. Spreadsheet never crashes. Camera roll? That's a different story.
Dealing with Tricky Stones: Weathered, Broken, or Unreadable
Not every stone cooperates. Some are so worn you can barely read a word. For those, I use a trick: take the photo in the late afternoon when the sun is low and casts shadows across the letters. I also carry a small handheld mirror to reflect light onto the stone. Sounds ridiculous, but it works. For broken stones, I photograph the pieces separately and note their position. I once found a headstone split in half, the top part leaning against a tree. I photographed both parts, measured the distance between them, and logged it. Later, I found a county historical society that had a photo of the intact stone from 1920. Felt like a detective. If the stone is marble or limestone, I never use anything acidic or abrasive — just water and a soft brush. And I never pressure wash. Ever. That's a one-way ticket to erasing history.
Sharing Your Work: From Spreadsheet to Family Tree
Once I of a solid batch of records, I upload the photos to a shared Google Photos album (private, only family) and link each photo to the corresponding row in my spreadsheet. Then I add the info to my family tree on Ancestry.com. I attach the photo directly to the person's profile and paste the inscription in the notes. It's tedious, but my relatives love it. My cousin once messaged me, 'I never knew our great-grandfather's middle name — thank you.' That made the whole thing worth it. I also print out a paper copy of the spreadsheet and keep it in a binder for emergencies. Call me old-fashioned. I don't care. Digital files can vanish. Paper stays.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What's the best camera for cemetery documentation?
A: Honestly, your phone is fine. I use an iPhone 13, and it's all I need. The key is to use the 'grid' setting to keep your shots level, and turn on HDR for better contrast on worn inscriptions. If you're shooting in direct sunlight, use your body to cast a shadow over the stone — that cuts glare. I've never needed a fancy DSLR. Just steady hands and good light.
Q: How do I find unmarked or lost graves in a cemetery?
A: Start with the cemetery's official records. They often have plot maps. If that fails, check old newspapers on Chronicling America or local history books. I once found a grave by walking the perimeter and looking for slight depressions in the ground where a stone used to be. I also use a long metal probe (carefully!) to feel for buried footstones. But always ask the cemetery office for permission first. Don't want to get kicked out.
Q: Should I clean headstones that aren't my ancestor's?
A: Only if you have explicit permission from the cemetery and the stone's owner (if it's a private plot). Many historic cemeteries have rules against any cleaning. I clean only my family's stones, and I always use the gentlest method. If a stone is fragile or flaking, I leave it alone. Better to photograph it as-is than risk damage. And never clean a stone that's already crumbling — you could make it worse.
Q: What do I do if the inscription is completely illegible?
A: Try a rubbing with plain paper and a soft graphite stick — but only on flat, sturdy stones. Never do a rubbing on fragile marble or sandstone; it can pull off flakes. For tricky stones, I take a photo and then adjust the contrast in editing software. I use the free app Snapseed to boost shadows and clarity. Sometimes the letters pop right out. If nothing works, I record the stone's location and note 'illegible' in my spreadsheet. Future researchers might have better tools.
Q: How do I organize photos for multiple family branches in one cemetery?
A: I create seperate folders on my phone for each surname group. For example, 'Oakwood Cemetery - Smith side' and 'Oakwood Cemetery - Jones side.' Then I use a prefix in the file name, like 'SMITH_01.jpg' vs 'JONES_01.jpg.' In my spreadsheet, I have a column for 'Family Branch' so I can filter by it. It takes an extra minute per grave, but when you're juggling four great-aunts and a third cousin twice removed, it's a lifesaver.