How I Plan a Cemetery Research Trip So Nothing Gets Missed

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I’ll never forget the first time I drove four hours to a small cemetary in rural Vermont to find a client’s great-grandmother’s grave. I had the plot number, a map from the sexton, and a sunny Saturday. What I didn’t have was a backup plan. The map was wrong. The sexton’s handwriting was a scrawl. And that plot number? It belonged to a tree. I spent two hours walking rows, sweating through my good blazer, and finally found the stone half-sunk under a patch of poison ivy. Took me three tries to get back there with the right tools. Worth it. But I learned my lesson.

These trips are part detective work, part archaeology, and part therapy for the families I serve. If you’re planning a cemetery research trip—wether to find a relative’s headstone, take photos for a genealogy project, or assess a memorial for cleaning—you can’t just wing it. You need a system. I’ve been doing this for twelve years, and I’ve messed up enough times to know what works. Here’s my real, no-fluff process for planning a cemetery research trip so you don’t end up crying in a field of poison ivy.

Step 1: Start with the Paper Trail (Before You Leave the House)

I never step foot in a cemetery without a folder of paperwork. And I mean a real folder—not a notes app on my phone. Phone batteries die. Signal drops. Rain happens. I print everything.

What goes in that folder: a list of names and dates, any plot numbers or section letters from Find a Grave or the cemetery office, a copy of the death certificate if I of it (sometimes they list the exact burial location), and a map of the cemetery. Not a Google Maps screenshot—a real plot map. Most cemeteries have them online or will email you one if you call. I also write down the sexton’s phone number. They’re usually retired guys with creaky knees who know every stone. Call them. Ask about recent ground settling, construction, or if a section was re-numbered. Saved me a headache last month when a sexton told me Section D was actually now under a new parking lot.

One more thing: check the cemetery’s rules. Some require you to sign in at an office. Others ban any cleaning or photography. I learned this the hard way when a groundskeeper chewed me out for using a soft brush on a 1920s marble marker. I thought I was helping. He thought I was defacing. Now I always ask permission first.

Step 2: Pack the Right Gear (And Nothing That Will Damage Stone)

My go-to bag is an old canvas tote that’s seen better days. Inside, I carry: a soft-bristled brush (natural horsehair, not nylon—nylon can scratch), a spray bottle with distilled water, a bucket, and a bottle of D/2 Biological Solution. That’s the only cleaner I use on headstones. It’s pH-neutral, non-ionic, and kills biological growth without eating into the stone. I’ve seen what bleach does to marble. Not pretty. Never again. I also pack wooden tongue depressors for scraping off lichen gently—no metal tools, ever.

Photography gear: a cheap point-and-shoot camera (my phone’s camera is fine, but I use a dedicated one to save battery), a small folding ruler for scale, and a notebook with a pen that writes in damp wheather (Rite in the Rain notebooks are my jam). I also bring a pair of gardening gloves for moving overgrown ivy or brambles. And water. Lots of water. Cemeteries are hot, quiet, and you’ll walk more than you think.

Don’t bring: wire brushes, steel wool, bleach, ammonia, muriatic acid, or any abrasive scrub pads. Those are stone killers. Period.

Step 3: Arrive Early, Walk Slowly, and Use the Sun

I aim to arrive at a cemetery by 8 a.m. Why? The light. Early morning sun hits headstones at a low angle, making carving shadows pop. It’s way easier to read a worn 1800s inscription when the sun is slanting across it. By noon, everything flattens out and you’re squinting. Plus, fewer people are around. I like the quiet.

When I get there, I don’t run straight to the plot number. I walk a slow grid pattern from the entrance. Start at one corner, walk the rows east to west, then shift north. I tick off sections on my map with a pencil. If I find a stone that matches my names, I take a photo of it with a wide shot showing the surrounding graves (helps with re-finding), then a close-up of the inscription. I also write down any damage—cracks, lichen, leaning base—because families always ask.

I once spent an entire morning looking for a stone that turned out to be flat on the ground under two inches of grass. Only found it because I tripped on it. Now I look for depressions in the sod. That’s a dead giveaway for a sunken marker.

Step 4: Document Everything Like a Forensic Accountant

I take photos from at least three angles: straight-on, 45-degree left, and 45-degree right. I also take a shot of the stone’s back (sometimes there’s a family society emblem or a second inscription). Then I measure the stone’s dimensions—height, width, thickness—and note the material. Is it marble? Granite? Sandstone? Each weathers differently. Marble gets that sugary erosion. Granite holds up best. Sandstone crumbles if you look at it wrong.

I write all of this in my notebook, then transcribe it into a spreadsheet when I get home. Yes, a spreadsheet. I’m that person. Columns for: name, birth year, death year, plot, material, condition, cleaning needed, and notes. It sounds anal, but when a family asks me six months later for a specific detail, I have it. One time a client wanted to know if the stone had a lamb carving (it did—a little worn, but there). I’d written it down. They cried. That’s why I do this.

Also: take a GPS coordinate on your phone. Most cemetery maps are garbage. A GPS pin never lies.

Step 5: Clean Only What You’re Sure You Can Handle (And Get Permission)

Here’s the hard truth: not every headstone should be cleaned. If it’s sandstone or limestone, even a gentle scrub with water can cause surface loss. If it’s marble, biological growth can actually protect the stone from acid rain. Sometimes the best thing is to leave it alone and just document it. I always tell families: “I can clean this, but it might not look like new. And that’s okay.”

If the family wants me to clean it, and the stone is stable, I follow a strict routine: wet the stone with distilled water, apply D/2 with a spray bottle, let it sit for 5-10 minutes (not in direct sun—the solution dries too fast), then gently scrub with the horsehair brush using circular motions. Rinse with more distilled water. Never use a pressure washer. I’ve seen what those do to old limestone. It’s like sandblasting butter.

And always—always—get written permission from the cemetery office first. Some have rules against any cleaning. Others require you to use an approved contractor. Skipping this step can get you banned. I carry a laminated copy of the permission slip in my bag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What’s the best time of year to plan a cemetery research trip?

A: Spring and fall are ideal. Summer is too hot and the grass is too high—you’ll miss small stones. Winter ground can be frozen, and snow hides everything. I aim for April or October, after the cemetery has done it's spring cleanup but before the leaves fall. Also: check for poison ivy in summer. That stuff loves old graves.

Q: How do I find a headstone if the cemetery doesn’t have a map?

A: Start with online resources like Find a Grave or BillionGraves. Look for a local historical society or a “cemetery walk” group—they often have old plot ledgers. If all else fails, walk every row in a grid pattern and take photos of every stone. I once did this for a 10-acre cemetery. Took me two days. I found the stone in row 47, second from the end. Patience is the only shortcut.

Q: Can I use vinegar or baking soda to clean a headstone?

A: No. Vinegar is acidic and will etch marble and limestone. Baking soda is abrasive and can scratch softer stones. Stick with a pH-neutral, non-ionic cleaner like D/2 Biological Solution. It’s what most professional conservators use. I buy it by the gallon online. One bottle lasts me about ten trips.

Q: What should I do if a headstone is broken or leaning?

A: Leave it alone. Do not try to glue or reset it yourself. Broken stones are fragile and often have internal cracks. Leaning stones can collapse if you touch them. Take photos and measurements, then contact the cemetery office or a professional monument company. I refer families to the same guy in my area—he’s been doing restorations for thirty years and knows how to lift a 300-pound granite stone without snapping it.

Q: How long does a typical cemetery research trip take?

A: Depends on the cemetery size and how many stones I’m looking for. For a single stone in a small cemetery (under 100 graves), I budget 2-3 hours including travel and cleanup. For a large cemetery with multiple names, I plan a full day—8 hours. I always add an extra hour for wandering. You’ll find things you weren’t looking for, and that’s half the joy.