Re-Inking vs Leaving It: My Decision on a Faded Inscription After Cleaning

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Last spring, I was working in an old cemetary outside Manchester, Connecticut — the the kind where the oldest stones lean like tired old men. I’d spent two hours cleaning a beautifull 1840s marble marker for a woman named Eliza. Her name was barely a ghost on the stone. After the D/2 dried, I knelt there, brush in hand, staring at that faint lettering. My gut said, "Sarah, you could bring her back." My brain said, "Don't screw this up."

I’ve been a genealogist for fifteen years. I’ve seen what bad re-inking looks like — patchy, garish, wrong-font disasters that look like a toddler got loose with a Sharpie. But I’ve also seen inscriptions so worn they’re basically silent. And that silence? It breaks my heart. So I made a call that day. Took me three tries. Worth it.

Here’s what I’ve learned about when to re-ink and when to leave a stone alone. No fluff. Just dirt-under-the-nails truth.

The One Time I Broke My Own Rule (And It Worked)

Eliza’s stone. Remember her? That 1840s marble marker. The inscription was so faint that even after cleaning, I could only read it by running my fingers over the grooves. I decided to re-ink it anyway, even though I usually leave marble alone.

Why? Because the carving was still deep — just filled with 180 years of dirt that D/2 couldn’t fully extract. I used a toothpick to gently pick out the remaining crud, then applied Lithichrome in a dark gray (not black — gray looks more natural on aged marble).

Took me two hours. My back hurt. But when I finished, her name read clearly: "Eliza M. Thompson, wife of John, aged 34 years." I found her in census records later that week. She died of consumption. Left three kids. Knowing her name again felt like giving her a voice.

I don’t always re-ink. But when I do, I do it right.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I use regular acrylic paint from the craft store for re-inking?

A: I wouldn’t. Acrylics form a plastic layer that traps moisture and can peel off within a year or two. Stone needs paint that breathes and bonds. Lithichrome or a similar monument paint is worth the extra cost. If you can’t get that, a high-quality matte latex exterior paint mixed with a bit of stone dust can work in a pinch — but test on a hidden spot first.

Q: How do I remove old, bad re-inking without damaging the stone?

A: Gently. Use a soft nylon brush and D/2 Biological Solution. Let the D/2 sit for 10-15 minutes, then scrub lightly. If the paint is stubborn, you can try a plastic scraper (like a putty knife) at a shallow angle. Never use wire brushes or sandpaper — they’ll scratch the stone. If the paint is oil-based, you might need a poultice of baking soda and water left on overnight. Go slow.

Q: Is it okay to re-ink a sandstone headstone?

A: I’m cautious with sandstone. It’s soft and porous, and paint can sink in unevenly. If the carving is deep and the stone is stable, you can try — but use a lighter color (like a tan or light gray) so it doesn’t look fake. Test on the bottom edge first. If it bleeds, stop. Sandstone often looks better just cleaned and left natural.

Q: How long does re-inking last on an outdoor headstone?

A: Depends on the wheather and the stone. In a sunny, dry climate (like Arizona), I’ve seen Lithichrome last 5-7 years. In a wet, freeze-thaw climate (like New England), maybe 3-4 years. It will fade gradually. That’s fine — it’s meant to be reapplied if needed. Don’t expect it to be permanent. Nothing is on stone outside.

Q: Can I re-ink a headstone that has lichen or moss growth?

A: No. Clean it first. Lichen roots can hold moisture under the paint and cause the stone to flake. Use D/2 to kill and remove the lichen, then wait for the stone to dry completely. If you paint over lichen, you’re just sealing in a problem. I learned this the hard way on a granite stone in Rhode Island — the lichen died under the paint and turned into black sludge. Gross.