Refreshing a Gold-Leaf Emblem on a Headstone After Cleaning
headstone cleaning in Pennsylvania | headstone cleaning in California
I'll never forget the first time I tried to touch up a gold-leaf emblem, it was a cold October morning, about eight years ago. I'd just finished cleaning a lovely old granite marker for a Civil War veteran—took me three hours with D/2 and soft brushes. The stone looked beautifull, but the gold-leaf eagle at the top was practically invisible. Just a faint ghost of wings and talons. I thought, 'How hard can it be?' Bought some cheap craft-store gold paint. Slapped it on. Big mistake. It looked like a child's art project. The family came by the next week, and I had to admit what I'd done. They were kind about it, but I felt terrible. Took me three tries with proper materials to fix it. Worth it, though. That eagle shines now like it did in 1889.
So, you've cleaned a headstone and now you're staring at a gold-leaf emblem that's faded, cracked, or just plain worn away. I get it. You want to do right by the person buried there. Gold leaf is tricky—it's delicate, expensive, and easy to mess up. But with the right supplies and a little patience, you can bring it back to life. Here's how I do it, after fifteen years of trial and error at St. Mary's Cemetary.
Step 4: Burnish and Seal (The Final Touch)
After 24 hours, the gold is bonded. Now you need to 'burnish' it—that's just a fancy word for polishing. I take a clean, soft cotton ball and gently rub the gold in small circles. This brings out the shine. Loose bits will flake off. That's fine. Then I seal it. I use a product called 'Gilder's Wax'—a microcrystalline wax that's pH-neutral. I rub on a tiny amount with my finger, let it sit for 10 minutes, and buff it with a soft cloth. The seal protects the gold from moisture and UV rays. Most headstone gold leaf that I did five years ago still looks bright. The ones I didn't seal? They faded in two years. So don't skip this step.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I use gold paint instead of real gold leaf?
A: I really don't recommend it. Gold paint contains metal flakes that tarnish and turn green over time, especially outdoors. Real gold leaf is inert—it won't oxidize. I've had to scrape off old gold paint jobs, and it's a nightmare. Gold leaf costs more, sure, but it lasts decades if sealed properly.
Q: What if the old gold leaf is still partially there? Should I remove it first?
A: Only if it's flaking or peeling. Gently brush off loose pieces with a soft brush. Don't scrape. If the old leaf is firmly attached, you can apply new leaf right over it after cleaning. I've done that many times. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry, and apply the sizing directly over the old leaf. It'll bond fine.
Q: How do I fix a mistake if the gold leaf goes outside the lines?
A: Don't panic. Wait until the sizing is fully dry—24 hours. Then use a sharp craft knife to carefully trim the excess gold leaf along the edge of the emblem. Gently lift the scraps with tweezers. For tiny spots, I use a soft eraser to rub off the stray leaf. It comes off easily once it's dry.
Q: Is it okay to do this in winter or cold wheather?
A: I'd avoid it. Gold-leaf sizing works best between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Below 50, the sizing gets thick and takes forever to dry. Above 85, it dries too fast. I once tried in November—40 degrees—and the sizing never got tacky. Total waste of a sheet of gold leaf. Stick to spring or fall.
Q: Can I use a hairdryer to speed up the sizing drying?
A: Please don't. Heat can make the sizing brittle and cause it to crack. Also, a hairdryer blows dust and dirt onto the wet surface. I learned this when a gust of wind from my dryer sent a leaf of gold flying into a bush. Just let it dry naturally. Put on a podcast. Have a cup of tea.