Tree Roots Heaving a Grave Marker: What I Did About It

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I remember the first time I saw it. A big old red oak, maybe fifty years old, had it's roots wrapped around the base of a Civil War veteran’s headstone like a python. The marker was tilted a good six inches out of the ground. Leaning so far it looked ready to tip over. I stood there with my coffee getting cold, just staring. That tree didn’t care about history. It just wanted water.

Tree roots heaving a grave marker is one of those problems that sneaks up on you. You don’t notice it one year, then the next, the stone’s listing like a drunk sailor. And if you ignore it, the root keeps growing, pushing the marker sideways until it cracks or falls. I’ve seen it happen more times than I can count. So when I found that oak root wrapped around the base of a limestone headstone, I knew I had to act. But I had to do it right. No shortcuts.

Here’s exactly what I did, step by step, including the mistakes I made along the way. Because beleive me, I made a few.

Step 1: Assess the Damage Without Touching a Thing

First thing I did was get down on my hands and knees. Looked at the root from every angle. Felt for movement. Took photos. That sounds boring, but it saved me later. The root was about three inches thick at the base of the stone, running along the ground for maybe four feet before disappearing under a patch of clover. I poked at it gently with a screwdriver to see if it was alive. Green wood inside meant it was still growing. That root wasn’t going anywhere on its own.

I also checked the stone itself. Limestone, old and soft. No cracks yet, thank God. But the base was slightly buried in soil, and the root had wedged itself between the stone and the ground. That’s the danger zone. If I’d just yanked the root out, I could of snapped the stone in half. So I made a plan. Slow and careful. Took me three tries to get it right. Worth it.

Step 2: Cut the Root — but Not All at Once

Big mistake would be to cut the whole root in one go. That sends a shock through the tree and can cause dieback or suckers. Plus, the root might still grip the stone and pull it sideways as it dries. So I used a sharp pruning saw — not a chainsaw, too clumsy — and made a cut about a foot away from the stone on each side. Left a six-inch stump on both ends. That way the root could die back slowly, and I could wiggle the middle section loose without jerking the stone.

I worked the saw by hand. Slow, sweaty work. Took maybe twenty minutes for each cut. The root was tough, but the saw blade was new. I used a Felco folding saw — not sponsored, just works. After the cuts, I waited two days. Let the root dry out a little. Then came back with a pry bar and a block of wood. Wedged the block under the stone for support. Gently lifted the root piece with the pry bar. It popped loose with a soft crack. No damage to the stone. Felt like a small victory.

Step 3: Lift the Marker and Reset It Properly

With the root gone, the stone was still tilted. I had to lift it and reset it in fresh soil. But you can’t just shove it back upright. That creates air pockets, and the stone settles unevenly again. I dug a shallow trench around the base, about eight inches deep. Removed the old soil mixed with root bits. Mixed in some coarse sand — play sand, cheap stuff — to improve drainage. Then I poured a little water in the hole. Let it soak in.

This is the part where I learned the hard way. First time I tried this, I lifted the stone too fast and it cracked at the base. Never again. Now I use two iron stakes driven into the ground on either side of the marker, with a padded strap looped under the stone. I lift slowly, an inch at a time, checking for cracks. Then I backfill with the sand-soil mix, tamping it down every couple inches. Took me about an hour. The stone ended up level within a quarter-inch. Good enough for me.

Step 4: Clean the Marker — Gently — and Monitor the Tree

After resetting, the stone had dirt smeared all over it from the root and the digging. I didn’t use a pressure washer. That would have blasted the limestone surface. Instead, I mixed a batch of D/2 Biological Solution — that stuff is pH-neutral and safe for old stone. Sprayed it on, let it sit for ten minutes, then scrubbed with a soft nylon brush. Rinsed with a garden hose on a gentle spray. The dirt came off easy. The stone looked clean but not stripped. That’s the goal.

Now the tree. That oak is still alive. The root I cut will die back, but the tree will send out new roots. So I check that spot every few months. Dig a little around the base to see if any new roots are sneaking toward the marker. If they are, I cut them early. Prevention is way easier than fixing a heave. I also put down a layer of coarse gravel around the base of the stone. Not a concrete slab — just gravel. It discourages roots from growing flat against the stone. Seems to be working so far.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I know if a tree root is actively heaving a grave marker?

A: Look for a root that’s wrapped around the base of the stone or running right alongside it. If the marker is tilted more than two inches out of level, and you see a thick root pushing against it, that’s a heave. You can also check by tapping the root with a screwdriver — green, moist wood means it’s alive and growing.

Q: Can I just cut the root and leave the marker tilted?

A: You could, but the stone will keep settling unevenly and might crack under its own weight. I’ve seen it happen. Cutting the root stops the heaving, but you still need to reset the marker level. Otherwise, the lean gets worse over time.

Q: What’s the best tool for cutting a root near a headstone?

A: A sharp pruning saw or a handsaw with a fine blade. Avoid chainsaws or reciprocating saws — too much vibration, and you might nick the stone. I use a folding pruning saw with a curved blade. Works clean. Cut at least a foot away from the stone on both sides.

Q: Will cutting a tree root kill the tree?

A: Not if you cut only one or two roots. Trees can lose up to 20% of their root system without dying. But don’t cut a root that’s more than four inches thick or one that’s close to the trunk. If you’re worried, call an arborist. I’ve done it plenty of times.

Q: How do I prevent tree roots from heaving a marker in the future?

A: Install a root barrier — a sheet of heavy plastic or metal buried vertically about 12 inches deep between the tree and the marker. Or surround the marker’s base with coarse gravel. Roots don’t like growing through gravel. Also, monitor every spring. Catch new roots early and cut them.